Where The Cheese Industry Comes Together

The 5th Annual Ontario Cheese Society Conference
Blog courtesy of Andy Shay

After fifteen years in the fine food business, one thing I have learned is that being on the ground is worth 10,000 words.  You can read, research, talk to the subjects and producers and know a lot about the subject, but it is not until you go there and are on the ground and suddenly understand all the things that you had not even considered, that the true picture, the lay of the land instantly crystallizes and is incredibly clear.


If you are in any part of the cheese business, milk production, cheese production, marketing, distribution, retailing a restaurant or even thinking about becoming one of these, then being on the ground means being at the fifth annual Ontario Cheese Conference on Monday April 26 at University of Toronto’s Hart House.

The conference is a day-long session of presentations, panel discussions, tastings, and film screenings followed by a public marketplace for tasting Ontario wines and cheeses from Canada with the ability to meet the producers and purchase the cheeses as well.  The Marketplace is included in the price of admission for conference goers, but is also open to the public for $30.  Tickets can be purchased online at www.ontariocheese.org.

The Conference sessions will include:

- A snapshot of the Canadian cheese market
- A panel discussion lead by Scott McKenzie, head of George Brown College’s new Cheese for Hospitality program, the panel will focus on the needs and trends of restaurateurs cheese service
- A panel discussion of Issues for Canadian cheesemakers featuring David Wood of Salt Spring Island Cheese and Scott Linkletter of Cows Dairy.
- A tasting of cheeses from Canada’s highways and byways lead by Julia Rogers
- A screening of the documentary film ”A Monks Secret” hosted by Kathy Guidi and followed by a tasting of the cheese.
- A report on the upcoming EU talks and the possible ramifications and implications for Canadian cheese.
- Facts or myths about milk – a panel discussion exposing the truth about goat, sheep and cow milk.
- Key note address by American Cheese Society President David Gremmels on how the ACS coalesced into a national society

The who’s who of the cheese business attends this conference and it is the one time each year that you can find these people all in one room at the same time.

Admission is $275.  Details of the conference and online ticket sales will be available strating the last week of February at www.ontariocheese.org.

I hope to see you there!

Bonnie & Floyd and Me: Moment of Truth Approaches

Blog courtesy of Georgs Kolesnikovs

I’ve been mothering a wheel of Bonnie & Floyd for three months now, and I can tell you that aging cheese properly during a Canadian winter isn’t easy, especially when one lives in a high-rise apartment building.

Aging my wheel of Bonnie & Floyd

I was given the wheel of my favorite Ontario sheep’s-milk cheese at the conclusion of a Cheesemaker for a Day program at Fifth Town Artisan Cheese in Prince Edward County in late November. The instructions from the caveman at Fifth Town, affineur Phil Collman, were simple: Age the cheese at a temperature of 12 to 15 degrees Celsius, with humidity between 80 and 90 percent, and wash it weekly.

Easier said than done in an apartment building when outside temps drop to below -10 for weeks on end. Every corner of our apartment is of course too warm. Even our storage cage in the basement is too warm. And every corner of the underground garage is freezing or close to it. 

I finally found an unused, cluttered utility room where the temps at least were in the 5 to 10-degree range. By storing the cheese in a large plastic container with wet paper towels I could maintain the humidity at close to ideal, but there was little I could do about the cold. I’ve been able to average only 8.3 degrees over the 13 weeks so far.

In the purpose-built cave at Fifth Town, Phil Collman ages Bonnie & Floyd for three months. When I informed him of the conditions here, Phil suggested I take four months, noting that the humidity was more important than the temperature. So, I’ve been visiting the cheese twice a week to keep the paper towels wet—and the humidity holding at 80 percent.

Four months passed a few days ago since the wheel was made. I’m giving the cheese another two weeks until a special gathering of our extended family. I’ll be on tenterhooks when the tasting begins.

Bonnechere Cheese

Globe and Mail article – February 3, 2010

‘Five years ago James Keith, owner of Back Forty Artisan Cheese, had an idea: What would happen if he torched a wheel of cheese?

His goal was to create a cheese with a toasted exterior rind – the challenge was not having the wheel turn into fondue during the process. This innovative idea would become Bonnechere, a raw milk sheep cheese named after the Ottawa Valley’s Bonnechere River.’

For the full article please click here